kidlet and i decide to go to the grand bazaar! the first cab driver tells us the gb isn't open until ten but he'd be happy to take us to see the sites until it opens for a mere pittance. thanks, but no thanks. we decide to walk to the spice market which according to the info we garnered before leaving home, is a 10 minute walk.
did i mention we were walking around in donald duck feet as a result of swelling on the plane. or that kidlet picked up a nasty cold while on the germ-mobile for 10 hours? so she was armed with wads of kleenex, while i was wearing my old and trusted white sneaks. just setting the stage.
twenty minutes into our walk, we are nowhere near the spice market and it is hot and my feet are sprouting blisters like popcorn on a burner. discretion being the better valor, we flag a TAKSI and we're off to the Grand Bazaar, which is of course is and has been, open for hours. just saying . . .
here's kidlet at the entrance:

we were so psyched! see the guy holding the tops. remember that image. you will need it later on.
and into the warren of streets and stairs and cobblestones we go. amazing!
they sell jewelry, textiles, leather goods, rugs, schlock, you name it. and the deal is dickering. you should pay about half of the first offered price.
did i mention textiles? a cashmere pashmina may or may not have jumped into my open loving arms.
look at the ceilings!! these streets and alleyways go on for sixty square blocks. we'd wander up and down stairs and sometimes find ourselves back in the open air and turn around and dive back in. kidlet found some trinkets for friends.
finally, we headed for the open air on our own volition and kidlet decided to purchase a top for her small friend dovovan. she was instantly surrounded by tiny urchins vying for her funds. 'buy from me lady" "i give better deal, lady" kidlet made her selection and we wandered off but not unencumbered. once she became known for possessing cash, the onslaught continued. "i sell you five for 15" they wouldn't hear of kidlet's logic that having already purchased her item she had no need for twenty more. they were relentless and had they been older than five or six, i might have been frightened. the big boys were out hawking fake channel and understood the word no. sort of.
having had enough, we hailed a taksi back to the boat however our mobile host spoke no english. it took about 20 words of nautical theme before his eyes sparkled and he repeated the word 'ship'. when asked how much, he just held up a pre-made sign. and in we hopped. when we got close enough to actually see the ship down in the bay, he pointed by way of asking if he was right. he nodded like a bobble headed doll, as did we.
back on board, we crashed, having been up for 24 hours straight the day before. dinner and then a glorious farewell to istanbul: